Alternator

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AustHaflinger
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Alternator

Post by AustHaflinger »

My Haffie does not have a governor so has a spare pulley slot on the crankshaft. I am intending to put an electronic governor on the dizzy so this slot will remain available.

I have just come back from a 2500km outback trip in my landrover but as this trip was with many older slow vehicles it would have been suitable to have taken the Haffie. On the trip I have some aux battery issues and my mind wandered to what if I had taken the Haffie and its limited generating power of 20amps on a good day. My Landrover is 24v but I also have a 12v alternator on it to provide 12v power for auxiliary power - fridges, lights etc.

I thought I could do similar with the Haffie - put in a 12v alternator where the governor would go - the 65 alternator I have on my Landrover is 65amp, is relatively small and could really boost the electrical capacity. Ideally I would like a smaller physical size alternator but the one I have would fit.

It would rob the engine of a few HP but the aim of these long outback trips is reliabilty so cruising below 70kph on 14" tyres and high speed gears so the engine will be operating in it torque band (noting my engine is 760cc) so not a big issue. I would have the brackets set up so they can be easily removed so when not on a trip the alternator is not fitted.

So has anyone fitted an aux alternator to their Haffie and if so how did you do it?

Cheers

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Alternator

Post by heinkeljb »

Hi Gary,

I have been considering all sorts of modifications, from a supercharger to alternator replacement of dynamo part of the Dynastart. The only issue as you have noted is that you don't get extra electricity for nothing!

I think a 65 Amp alternator is a bit overkill, if you could find a physically small 45 Amp one, that would probably be better. The next step would be to work out how big the two pulleys would need to be. The one on the crankshaft would probably have to be a similar size to the Dynastart one. The on on the alternator as small as you could get it. Alternators still need to be spun relatively fast to produce electricity. I am sure it could be worked out if we knew the speed range of the alternator.

If you go for an alternator, you don't need the dynamo part of the Dynastart so that could be disconnected. I am just not sure that the Starter part works if you just disconnect the field coil cables. Still need to energise the coils as there is very little residual magnetism without electricity flowing through some of those coils. Might need to re-wired the regulator section to make it work, but that shouldn't be too difficult.

There are some small alternators produced for race cars which would do the trick.

Look forward to seeing how this progresses as it should be a very good Mod.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Alternator

Post by AustHaflinger »

Thanks John - I would not be changing the dynastart, so any additional alternator would be in addition to the standard arrangement. A standard car type alternator develops full generating capacity from about 1500 alternator rpm so the governor slot on the crankshaft pulley will turn the alternator fine - particularly as cruise will be 3500-4000 engine RPM.

Of course as an alternative I could just strap my solar panels on top of the cab and plug them in to that battery as they will generate another 20 amps of power when the sun is out. There was an incident recently where a 4wd had alternator failure up on Cape York and he was able to drive the 1000km back to Cairns with his solar panels charging the battery on the way.

Cheers

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Alternator

Post by heinkeljb »

Hi Gary,

I wasn't advocating changing the Dynastart or replacing it totally with the alternator as you still need to start the engine! What I was suggesting is that you disable the charging side of things from the Dynastart as there is no need to have two sources making electricity. Especially as even a 45 Amp alternator will have more than double the output of the Dynastart.

The existing pulley for the governor is probably a bit small to give the RPM required at low revs, so making the crank pulley bigger would be easier than making the alternator pulley smaller.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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audiocontr
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Re: Alternator

Post by audiocontr »

Did you ever install an alternator?
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Alternator

Post by AustHaflinger »

No because I could not find one that was physically small enough and I have found that the dynastart provides more than enough electricity - my battery has never been below 12.5v and when running even with all lights on (I have 55w halogens) and charging the lowish 12.5v battery the voltmeter still reads 13.3v when at cruising revs (13.9 with lights off).

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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heinkeljb
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: Alternator

Post by heinkeljb »

I think there are several small alternators which could be used. One from a small Suzuki might be suitable, there are some designed for racing which are small and light.
I came across someone who had fitted an alternator to his Haflinger and had made a custom nut to fit the Dynastart pulley with another pulley wheel / groove.

Pictures below:-
Alternator mod.jpg
Top mounting,
Alternator mod upper mount.jpg
Lower mounting,
Alternator mod lower mount.jpg
The alternator is apparently a 45 amp unit, but unfortunately I did not get a make / model for it.
i think you could fit one and then disconnect the charging side of the Dynastart to reduce the horsepower being diverted to generating electricity.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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audiocontr
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Re: Alternator

Post by audiocontr »

very cool. The alternator mounting/sourcing is something easily tackled. I'm curious about that nut and pulley. Are the pulleys easily sourced?
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heinkeljb
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Re: Alternator

Post by heinkeljb »

I believe the pulley wheel and the nut were custom made, but I think the pulley wheel could be a commercial off the shelf item that is then altered to take an extended version of the original Dynastart nut.

The way Gary is suggesting he could install one would be to use the pulley on the crank shaft that would normally run the governor and place a suitably small alternator in approximately the same position as the original governor would have been placed.

The biggest issue I see with this placement is that it would be better to change the size of the bottom crank shaft pulley for something with a slightly bigger diameter. That way the alternator would be sun at a good speed even at idle which would help with turning the "weak" electrical system of a Haflinger into a reasonably modern setup capable of supporting modern equipment.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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