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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:48 pm 
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Location: Southern California, San Diego area
But the amount of carbon...holy geez.

I was going to use an electrical stator cleaner to get the gunk off (CRC Lectra-Clean), but before I do go that route, does anyone have a better cleaning idea?

I've already done a very gentle brush off, followed by low pressure air. This really needs some kind of a liquid grime cutter that won't destroy the varnish or fabric on the windings.

Once I get it clean enough I'll do some continuity tests on the windings, hopefully they haven't shorted. If they're good, then I'm going to figure out how to resolder that #30 stud to the wires. That sucker will take a bit of heat, in a confined area. Should be fun! :twisted:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:18 am 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Get yourself a big lump of copper or make yourself one from a nice long length of copper pipe folded and hammered together and shaped to give you a suitable point. Put a handle on it and then heat it in a blow torch. Use some proper electrician's flux and solder on clean connections.

That should give you enough heat in a small area to heat the terminal quickly and to a temperature to melt the solder properly.

Sounds like you have a bit of cleaning to do. Maybe using a ultrasonic cleaner would be the answer?

John

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:31 am 
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Location: Southern California, San Diego area
Good idea there.

Another one I was thinking about was using a plumbers iron, I think I've got a few around here I could use.

Lots of cleaning to do, for some of the stuff I'll be using the ultrasonic, but what I've found by reading some of the old tractor forums I'm on is to use paint thinner as a cleaning agent. Some folks use regular soap and water, but then the drying cycle takes forever. I'll go with the paint thinner and some soft brushes to begin with. Should be able to do most of it tomorrow, hopefully do the soldering later this week. I'll have to figure something out about the wire, since that actually broke prior to the solder joint.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:34 am 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
If you can find some of the same thickness copper wire, you could make a mechanical joint first, by twisting the new wire over a cleaned section of the old wire. Like a spring, then turn the last couple of mm of the original wire up and back to stop the new wire being pulled off, Then solder it to make a good electrical connection. Then either varnish it or use heat shrink tube on it to insulate your new joint.
Now you can enough wire to go to the original connection point.

Other thing you could do is replace the whole coil.....

Just remember using paint thinners - it might strip the varnish off the coil wires, so test it on a bit you can re-insulate if it does!!!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 4:39 pm 
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Location: Southern California, San Diego area
Yep, if there's room that's the easiest.

Another way I've done it in the past is to whip the wires after they're butted. Then solder over it. The whipping gives it some mechanical strength, and the solder gives a good path.

I'll clean it and look at it again, but there's really not much room to work in there. I think I'll probably be pulling the windings out and doing a repair out of the case, then reinsert.

I hear you about the solvent activity, I always test first. Learned that lesson a long time ago, lol.

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