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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:26 am 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
Hello from canada,

Tonight I tried converting my 1963 mil-spec to pertronix.
I don't have the instruction sheet (was left in the rain), I figured since I installed a few pertronix already on 305-350sbc I'd be fine.... How wrong I am.

1.Anyone has a copy of-the install sheet for the mv-121 pertronix?

2.Is there anything different in setting the timing with the pertronix?

Thank you,

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 7:52 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
Sorry - I no longer have my instructions but was simple to install. Time the ignition as per normal. Just make sure you have a coil that has the resistance in the right range or you will burn the Petronix out. I cannot remember the required resistance but it is in a few posts on here somewhere so do a search.

Garry

PS - instructions here http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instructi ... s/1181.pdf

Yes - coil needs a min of 3 ohms resistance.

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Landrover FC 101 (77)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 12:10 pm 
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Great thank you, do you remember setting the gap between the ring and the unit?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:14 pm 
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Sorry - I cannot remember the gap setting but I did set it to whatever the instructions said - sorry I cannot be more helpful. :(

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
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Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:08 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Surely the manufacture has those details available to download from their site? If not then we wait until some one has them and puts them up here.

John

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:05 pm 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
Pertronix only has generic instructions, id like to see the one that came with the kit. Followed the generic ones and I'm starting to think I might have a bad unit. When spinning by hand the spark jumps around ( sometimes early some late , sometimes 2 sparks or none). I'm putting-the points back in for the weekend and I'll try again fresh Monday.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:25 am 
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It is possible your air gap is too big if you are getting inconsistent sparks. My understanding of the trigger unit is that it uses a Hall effect transistor and a magnet. The flux lines given off by the magnet are by design very small and concentrated so as to give a definite "blip" in the lines of magnetism that are picked up by the Hall effect transistor.

You haven't mentioned a figure for your gap, but I would try to minimise it as much as possible. The other major item which these unit require is a suitable coil - I believe the VW Blue coil might be useable. As posted by Gary, it need be of at least 3 Ohms resistance across the windings. An incorrect one could easily give the problems you have described.

Have you tried contacting their help desk?

John

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:34 pm 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
I adjusted the air gap to 1mm, their spec is max 1,5mm, my coil (milspec, was 3,7). Doing the voltage test from the pertronix procedure ( connect the coil and the pertronix to the battery feed) got my coil to be very warm. I will try it with a new coil. You wouldnt have a part number for that blue volks coil by any chance?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:03 am 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
Jimmy rigged an other coil in, it would seem my coil ,rotor cap and finger died at the same time, all the hafli parts reseller I found can't get a new cap, anyone would like to get rid of-theirs? If not anyone know of a seller that still stocks them?(waiting on technik answer)
Thank you

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:11 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
I appreciate you are in Canada but you might put in your specific location in as part of your profile (user control panel- edit profile - Location) so it appears with each post.

Also who is Jimmy?

Ask Scott at Expedition Imports to email/send you new instructions https://expedition-imports.com/search.a ... +pertronix

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 2:34 am 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
Location updated :)

Jimmy is a guy who makes a lot of shady repairs.... Like fitting a coil from a cj3 into a haflinger with aligator clips...

Emailed expedition-import last week and didint get an answer. Will try again.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 3:00 am 
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Thanks for updating you location - I think there are a few people on here from your general area.

Any general service coil will work fine.

I have a Bosch GT 40 coil (make sure your do not get the R version. It is a good all round coil that works fine with a Pertronix module in the Haflinger. I also use one on my Rover V8 and my Jag V12 so a very flexible coil.

You have them in Canadia so should be available for about $50 at an aftermarket auto store - here a a ebay list for one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Genuine-BOSC ... 281e6da8f2

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:27 am 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Distributor cap:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Puch-500-D-Pu ... SwOgdYtRqT

I am pretty sure somewhere like this this place:0

http://www.prokschi.at/?action=getrieberechner

will have the bit you are after, but obviously being in Europe, they are likely to be expensive by teh time you get to the USA.

Regards,

John

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:02 pm 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
thanks for the help. ordered a flamethrower coil to match the pertronix, and technik sells an adapter to convert my military distributor to civy caps. im gonna go that way to keep my maintenance cost down.

garrycol : ended up going with the 40,000v coil to match the pertonix

heinkeljb : I wasn't able to find the military isolated cap. technik seems to be the only one to still have them, ill be going with the conversion to civy ignition. I think ill be better for me as the haflinger doesn't see much water crossing.


thanks for the help guys, ill let you know how it turns out when everything get to my door.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:04 pm 
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well..... I ended up converting the distributor and leads to civilian set thanks to haflingertecknick's conversion cap.... along with a new coil its now purring like a kitten.

When my coil died the pertronix unit died with it. anyone has a lead on a new unit?? or has one laying around?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:58 pm 
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Sorry can't help with the Pertronix.
Thats a shame it died along with a coil. Don't they have short circuit protection?

John

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:50 am 
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Read up on them a bit and it seems the later versions have surge protect and reverse polarity protect but not the ignitor serie. Kinda sucks but the haflinger runs and its all that really matters.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:40 am 
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That's good! Now you just need to post some pictures of it getting used.

John

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 2:30 am 
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Location: Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
I timmed it by hear because i was in a rush then today brought it back down per the book and my little guy feels much weaker. I went from 12-15mm to the 5mm in the book. I lost 5km/h on top speed and a bunch of torque on the lower revs. Being my first aircooled engine i am worried about overheating it. The idle was a little high beforr i brough it back down. Currently running a 40.000v ignitor coil and a civy conversion kit on my distributor if it changes anything.

All i can think is a bad valve adjustment but not sure it would do it.

Never drove the haflinger when it was at 100% so dont know what to expect on the road.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 6:52 am 
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Obviously when you run with timing which different from the book, you will get different power output. The book(s) are actually contradictory, at one point they talk about mm when dealing with Degrees so who know's what the actual value is?

Set it to be about 7mm as a straight line measurement from the timing mark split on the crank case to the timing on the wheel. That seems to work on mine quite well.

John

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