TheHaflinger.com

Yes sounds like a straight timing issue - but according to my handbook it is 2mm before TDC - I have converted this to degree BTDC as my timing light has a degrees setting on it - the 2mm equates to 7 degrees BTDC.

I have the Petronix on my engine and it runs great so as well as timing on the fan housing/pulley the position of the petronix may need looking out.

Garry

I find it wierd that the recommended timming isnt the most powerfull one. Any chance of overheating/ burning out the engine? Irs my first aircooled motor ( usually i woukd just keep an eye on the coolant temps).

The recommended timing is fine for normal everyday use. If you keep the oil topped up at the correct grade you should be fine - ensure your oil cooler is clear and has good airflow through it. Likewise the engine does need the tinware fitted around it for good airflow and is able to escape.

Where I live it is much hotter than where you are and I have no issues and my Haffie is road registered and used.

Garry

Alex - I responded to your post about taking the temps and will do noting that it is in the middle of winter here - I will wait until temps get above 4 degrees and go for a drive.

Not sure what happened to your post - I responded and was amending it and your post and my post got deleted. I have admin rights and the system must have thought I was making amendments as an admin rather than a private person. Not to worry message got through.

Do you think you have an overheating problem? If so what is the basis of your concerns.

Garry

Went for a nice drive - mixed conditions - 80kph on the freeway, 30kph up steep hills and general driving around the burbs.

Measured on the fins next to the spark plugs - looking from the rear - left hand side 66.2 degrees C, right hand side 52.7 degrees C.

Garry

Great thank you.... You make it to 80kph.... I get 65 on a good day.

I have a few mods - 14" wheels, hi speed hubs and an extra 112cc and a bit higher compression ratio - and much worse fuel consumption - still dies going up hills - goes well downhill.

Gary, Admin section does not show you as having been logged in. I will have a look for the post (remember reading it as well) and see if I can find it. I don't think it is worth restoring the database just for that one post as it will also remove your current replies!

The reason the left hand cylinder is hotter than the right hand one is the oil cooler. With a MOD'ed engine it might be worth relocating the oil cooler out of the fan housing. Can be done by buying a manifold plate (or making one), a couple of long pressure hoses and a suitable external oil cooler. Oil cooler can be placed in front of the engine bay firewall in the outside air stream or have a fan connected up to come on to provide cooling when stationary. You could even put a temperature controlled thermostat in the oil lines to regulate oil temps.

John

John it is not worth the effort of trying to resurrect Alex's post - he just asked me to see what my left hand cylinder temp was and I have provided the answer.

Yes you are correct the left hand cylinder temp should always be higher than the right. The right gets lots of air from the fan and it exits over the fins either out the bottom or to the heat exchanger. Air for the left hand side goes through the oil cooler so is heated up a bit and goes out either the duct at the back or over the fins then out, so far less air gets over the fins.

My engine runs fine in 46 degree C weather so I dont need to make any mods - I just make sure I dont load up the engine too much

Resurrection of an old thread.

Did anyone get a copy of the instructions to instal the pertronix on a Haflinger? When I took mine out a while back to sort some ignition issues I did not take a pic.

Trying to put it back in now and I cannot work out where the baseplate goes - 2 options but I would prefer to have instructions before I pick one - the module is is very sensitive and will fail if all is not right.

The link I put up above is no longer valid and Expedition Exports who sell these for Haflingers do not have readable documents with their product listing.

So did anyone eventually find the instructions?

Thanks

Garry

AustHaflinger wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:23 am So did anyone eventually find the instructions?

I guess not

I emailed Expedition Exports on Friday and asked if they could email a copy or put them up on their website - will wait to see what happens.

I normally take pics when I do things but could not find anything when I had the unit fitted previously so I took a punt and refitted it. After that I was looking on my phone and this pic popped up. This shows the inside layout for a aluminum dissy housing. Note where the wires exit the housing. With a a steel dissy housing the module bolts up 90 degrees anti clockwise.

Not sure of the air gap so I left it where it was. Running the engine and driving it the car is developing a little less power than before with the points but I did have to reset the timing so maybe not quite right - the previous tuning was done professionally and on a dyno so I will close the module air gap a little and recheck the ignition timing.

If the instructions do surface I will post them up.

Garry

AustHaflinger wrote: ↑Sun Nov 21, 2021 10:18 am
I emailed Expedition Exports on Friday and asked if they could email a copy or put them up on their website - will wait to see what happens.

Well I emailed Expedition Exports twice with no response at all. I can accept that they may not be able to put the instructions up on their website but to completely ignore the request on two occasions is really not good enough. I wonder if they do the rest of their business in such an unbusinesslike manner.

Oh well.

Garry

Remembering previous threads I am not surprised at the delay in answering any emails as several other people on various forums appear to have had similar issues.
I think from the fact you managed to find a picture showing the orientation of the back plate - I would go with that and as you suggest play with the gap to try and do your fine tuning.

John