No spark.

[Tajman]

Moving on from the Brake master cylinder issue. I bought a battery (60 amp Hour, as I seem to recollect a 55 was recommended), connected up the Loom to the dash panel wiring. No power, so I went back to the forum and checked out earthing problems. I had put both earths from the dyna start to the body work. Once I had left one there and put the other on a carb. manifold bolt, The ignition circuit worked with the key turning the engine over and the red light coming on. It must be at least 15 years since that happened form the history I know.
Anyway with new contact breakers, condenser Ht leads etc, I was expecting a spark. but no. Eventually sussed it to the insulation breaking down on the contact breaker arm/coil wire/condenser wire bolt through the body of the distributer. Just using a continuety check with the meter.
Hopefully fix that tomorrow and then give the old girl a drink.
Jeff.

[AustHaflinger]

If you have a new rotor arm (and carbon bush in the dissy cap) put them in. I had major issues with the rotor arm.

[heinkeljb]

When you have issues like that, you can narrow down where the problem is by taking the wire going to the distributor and touching it to the engine casing. If you get a spark, issue is somewhere in the distributor. No spark, issue is somewhere to do with the coil and associated wiring.

Lets hope you have found the issue and can correct it.

John

[Tajman]

Yes, Thanks Garry and John.
I fitted a new rotor arm renewed the insulation on the 4mm bolt that goes through the metal Bosch distributor casing and renewed the strip of insulation that separates the contact breaker arm from the Dist. body. Then I had a fine fat spark. connected up the plugs and they sparked ok as well. Good!
Today I got ready a fire blanket and extinguisher. Piped up the carb and mechanical fuel pump and rigged a temporary fuel supply. All I got when turning over the engine was a back fire through the carb. The spark plugs where damp from fuel, so I am assuming it a timing issue.
Before engine refurb, I had marked where the dist. was originally, But, today, I moved it round 10 then maybe 15 degrees both ways , with no improvement.
Keeping in mind that when I first got the vehicle, 18 months ago, I cleaned the points, fuel line ,plugs and put fresh oil in and it started and ran reasonably, just a bit uneven.
You may remember that I found the valves an issue so had them replaced with new valve guides, when I did eventually strip the engine back. The bores,rings and pistons all seemed ok. Anyway I will do a valve check tomorrow and do the timing as described in the manual.
Just got to look at it all as a learning curve suppose.
Jeff
Before and after photos.

[heinkeljb]

Looks good in the pictures. Now just to get it to run! You are on the right track to getting it to run.

John

[AustHaflinger]

Marking the dizzy is not a good way to set up the dizzy as the shaft turns when the cogs mesh even though the housing is on its marks. Put the engine on TDC and then insert the dissy and turn so the rotor arm points to the No1 spark lead position on the dizzy cap (the handbook not the workshop manual has a process where they use a light to tell when the points open at TDC - see pic) then you should be close enough to at least start so you can then set the timing exact. I use 7°BTDC.

Garry

[Tajman]

Thank you Garry,
I found that I had a light and connectors that I could use so preceded with the instructions. I got it all set up and the light just coming on at TDC. Great, at this point I wasn't sure which was No1 spark lead. ( --CLUE) . Anyway still no go and lots of pops and bangs.
I then checked the valves, took off the rocker box covers and thought the valve clearance gaps were a little tight, so I reset them all to the .15mm, or so I thought! Then I realised I had been using the 15 thou. feeler gauge! Re-did them with the .15mm feeler gauge and stopped and thought, that rotor arm is pointing to the cylinder that has both valves closed, well I think that's how it was. So then I thought I will set up the distributer shaft 180 degrees opposite.
Every thing back together, turned the ignition and BINGO!. She fired up no problem and before long was ticking over a treat, quite smooth and no nasty noises. A bit lumpy on reving, but I have not adjusted anything. Very pleased.
I did set the pulley marks at a guess 7 degrees BTDC. I had seen a previous post of Garry's with the marks on his fan housing and set mine approx to that. With the light coming on as the contact breaker points opened. I suppose there is a more geometric way of measuring the 7degree angle.
Well I have learnt a lot and with the power of the forum post, had some great help.
Next ,although there is lot of wiring , fuel line, and adjustments to do, I can't resist taking the vehicle of the blocks and driving in and out of the garage to see if the clutch, gears and brakes operate as they should. I will keep you informed, I hope my experiences may help others venturing into the world of old Haflingers.
Cheers for now, Jeff.

[heinkeljb]

You can buy a timing light which can give you degrees before and after TDC. Much the best way to set up the timing.

Carb settings will be more troublesome, start with what the user manual says, then minor adjustments will get it running correctly.

John

[AustHaflinger]

The right hand cylinder (drivers side on RHD) is number one. What I said was just to approx set the engine so it will run - as John said you then need a timing light (cheap) to set exactly. I use 7°BTDC but the book says to use it 2mm before TDC.

If you do not have it - I have put the Owners Manual up here http://thehaflinger.com/viewtopic.php?p=13934#p13934

I find this document extremely useful for day to day maintenance work on the vehicle - better than the workshop manual except for full pulldowns.

Garry