Hi all,
I am going through my engine and I have stripped the Dynastart. Apart from needing a bearing, the insides are very dirty and full of carbon dust. Is there a best way to clean the insides? I have previously used engine degreaser to wash motor windings out of 3-phase motors, but I would be worried of damaging the windings.
Has anyone any experience of this?
Thanks,
Stephen.
Cleaning the Dynastart
Cleaning the Dynastart
'73 703AP
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
I should think just using hot water and detergent along with a brush would clean 99% of the carbon dust out and a good rinse afterwards before being left to dry would be the least aggressive way of cleaning the Dynastart. Once it is dry, you could give it a quick spray with something like WD40 although that will make the next lot of carbon dust stick, So I would just be inclined to wash and dry.
You could also use electrical contact cleaner which you could buy in either liquid or spray form.
If you used a water soluble engine degreaser, that should work as well as the water and detergent but it depends on whether it leaves a stick residue - that will make the carbon dust stick to things.
That's my take on things, but maybe others have different ideas.
John
You could also use electrical contact cleaner which you could buy in either liquid or spray form.
If you used a water soluble engine degreaser, that should work as well as the water and detergent but it depends on whether it leaves a stick residue - that will make the carbon dust stick to things.
That's my take on things, but maybe others have different ideas.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Thanks John,
As long as the moisture would not affect the windings. I have cleaned out modern motors with degrease before and it worked out very well after drying for a week or so, but I am a little nervous of this dynastart because of its age and conductor coatings.. The end plate shouldn't be an issue hopefully.. I'll give it a go and report back, (hopefully with good news)..
Stephen
As long as the moisture would not affect the windings. I have cleaned out modern motors with degrease before and it worked out very well after drying for a week or so, but I am a little nervous of this dynastart because of its age and conductor coatings.. The end plate shouldn't be an issue hopefully.. I'll give it a go and report back, (hopefully with good news)..
Stephen
'73 703AP
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
I have an address of a company that can recondition it, but they are not cheap. Having said that I have never had any problems with the items they have done for me.
I don't believe the coating used on the winding is water soluble (would seem rather a bad choice of coating considering where a Haflinger is designed to go! As long as there are not areas where the coating is actually flaking off then I see no problem in washing and drying it.
John
I don't believe the coating used on the winding is water soluble (would seem rather a bad choice of coating considering where a Haflinger is designed to go! As long as there are not areas where the coating is actually flaking off then I see no problem in washing and drying it.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Well, I went and done it! Dynastart stripped and dunked.. It got a fairly good wash in degreaser and rinsed off gently with fresh water. All of the parts are dying off now and will be for a week or so..
I have attached a few of before and after photos..
Stephen.
I have attached a few of before and after photos..
Stephen.
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'73 703AP
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Now that you have got it apart - I would replace both bearings, no point in only replacing one. The other is likely not far behind in being full of carbon dust which will have caused the demise of the first one. I am sure you don't really want to have to take it apart again in the near future to have to replace the bearing you didn't do.
John
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Wise words John, I might indeed.
The back bearing was an open bearing (6002) and I would blame this for creating some of the mess as some of the grease had escaped and the carbon dust had stuck to everything. It will be replaced by a 6202-2RS with rubber seals.
The back bearing was an open bearing (6002) and I would blame this for creating some of the mess as some of the grease had escaped and the carbon dust had stuck to everything. It will be replaced by a 6202-2RS with rubber seals.
'73 703AP
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Check the commutator before you put it back together again. The engine tends to stop in the same place every time so there will be a couple of places on the commutator which suffer from the starting sparks more than the others, so a quick round over with some fine sandpaper (not emery cloth - that leaves behind particles which are electrically conductive), blow it clean and make sure there are no tall bits of insulation above the copper sections on the commutator.
If there are, then use a broken hacksaw blade. Grind the sides to make the teeth narrow enough to just remove the insulating material. If you do this on the end of the hacksaw blade so the first tooth is pointing towards the handle, then you can "rake" it down the insulation towards you and it will undercut the insulation nicely.
Then you can fit new brushes and reassemble!
John
If there are, then use a broken hacksaw blade. Grind the sides to make the teeth narrow enough to just remove the insulating material. If you do this on the end of the hacksaw blade so the first tooth is pointing towards the handle, then you can "rake" it down the insulation towards you and it will undercut the insulation nicely.
Then you can fit new brushes and reassemble!
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Re: Cleaning the Dynastart
Thanks John,
Looking at it all, the whole lot is in surprisingly good shape. I have dressed the commutator and cleaned it all out and will rebuild it when the new bearings arrive and the field windings have dried out completely..
Looking at it all, the whole lot is in surprisingly good shape. I have dressed the commutator and cleaned it all out and will rebuild it when the new bearings arrive and the field windings have dried out completely..
'73 703AP
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."
"There is only one way to eat an elephant, one bite at a time.."