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Has anyone seen or made the tool for adjusting the volage regulator or can suggest what I could use.
The tool is shown in the workshop repair manual.
When I set the engine to 700/800 rpm my charging light remains bright green, so I guess it needs a bit of adjustment.

Dave

I have a Bosch electronic regulator in mine - so no adjustment needed. My 'red' charging light stays on until about 1000rpm and the voltage meter shows 12.8v. Remember the dynsastarter is a small generator not alternator so voltage generated by is governed by the revs with not much at ldle - the regulator will reduce voltage in the system when the dynastarter voltage is high at higher revs but it cannot push up system voltage when dynastarter voltage at low revs.

I cannot answer your direct question as I do not have the standard regulator but if your generator light goes out anything below 1000rpm then I would not be worrying about it.

Garry

I took some readings today, with a digital rpm tachometer.
I took the readings near as I could to the centre of the lower double pulley/ end of crank shaft.
approx 800rpm light is bright green
at approx 1150 rpm the colour starts to change, through to 1350rpm when it finally goes out.
The workshop manual says to check the voltage with a DC revolving coil voltmeter.
I will try to get one from somewhere just for piece of mind that it is ok.

Dave

I have just been reading a previous post started by Julian, charging light and idling speed (page 3 /electrical).
after reading the post I think maybe I am over thinking my problem and I should leave it as it is.

Dave

ogdenenterprise wrote: ↑Sun Jan 30, 2022 5:02 am I have just been reading a previous post started by Julian, charging light and idling speed (page 3 /electrical).
after reading the post I think maybe I am over thinking my problem and I should leave it as it is.

Dave

Yes is easy to do

Basic check for your electrical system:-

1: Do your light brighten when you increase the revs in line with the charge light going off? If yes, then the Dynastart is outputting more voltage than the battery.
2: If your charge light goes off and you are getting above 12.70 volts on the battery then it is charging the battery.
3: If you only get the charge light going off at "very" high revs, i.e. more that 1500 rpm - then you need to look at your charging system with a view to checking the voltage regulator settings.
4: If you have access to an Amperemeter which can read more than 20 amps on a scale you can see, then you can check how much current is going into the battery.

As a temp method of using a amperemeter you can do the following:- (If you want to fit one permanently, different wiring is needed)!!
Best option is to have a 30 - 0 - 30 amp meter. Easier with two people. One will be starting and controlling the revs, the second will be controlling the connections to the meter.

MAKE SURE EVERY THING ON THE HAFLINGER IS TURNED OFF - i.e. NO lights, ignition, indicators etc are on.

Disconnect the battery. Put suitably thick wires on the terminals of the amp-meter. Now connect one wire from the amp-meter direct to the battery. The other wire from the amp-meter connects to the wire you took off the battery. Now "Short out" the amp-meter.
Now start the engine.
Once the engine is running, you can "Un- Short" the engine - Obviously keeping the wires for the amp-meter connected to the battery and to the wire that was connected to the battery. All the current is now flowing through the amp-meter. You can now see the current rising when engine revs increase, also check on current draw when putting lights on etc.

You need to short the amp-meter out of the circuit whilst starting the engine as the current required from the battery will burn out your 30 - 0 - 30 amp meter!

John