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 Post subject: Alternative seat webbing
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:58 pm 
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I bought some of the correct "rubber bands" to put on Lurch's drivers seat as the ones that he came with were split and broken.
Cost a fortune to buy and who knows how long they will last.

So the passenger side has had to make do with bits of wire under the seat pad and some rope to replace the seat back for the last year.

Today, having received my order of rubber/cloth webbing I set about replacing the wire and rope!

Attachment:
File comment: Webbing with clips
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 1.jpg
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 1.jpg [ 159.51 KiB | Viewed 2148 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Starting to put straps in place
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 2.jpg
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 2.jpg [ 135.6 KiB | Viewed 2148 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Replacement back pad - seat from a wheelchair
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 3.jpg
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 3.jpg [ 68.81 KiB | Viewed 2148 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: All straps in place
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 4.jpg
Perrelli Webbing straps for seats 4.jpg [ 133.12 KiB | Viewed 2148 times ]


So, was it any cheaper - over all I think it is, but as I still have some webbing left but I am running out of the clips so I can't do the two rear seats yet.

Only time will tell if the webbing is a) strong enough and b) if it will last any length of time. So more later!

John

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Just on a side note.

I used stainless welding wire the same size as the original 'hooks' and using a vice I was able to replicate the original ones.

M


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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 11:10 am 
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Thanks Guys for the ideas.

It is just right now it is not a priority to restore the seats. Probably a job for next year.

That being so would love to hear of some alternative seat ideas that I could fit in place on a short to medium term basis.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 5:39 pm 
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Nice mod, I went with a simpler approach and used green lawn chair webbing on my seat bottoms. It has worked well the last 3 years and is still holding up well.
I used a screw and washer(in a clip hole) to secure both ends and just wove it onto the frame. Total cost was less than $8.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:33 pm 
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Evening All,

Can anyone let me know the exact number of rubber straps and seat hooks that go into each of the front seats?

If I have understood the parts book correctly it looks like a total of 11 straps per seat and 22 hooks. This seems ridiculous.

I would go and count the number of holes in my frames to work it out for myself but they are away being powder coated.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:10 pm 
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Hi Doug,

Now I am not trying to cast aspersions upon your ability to count, but when I looked at the pictures above of my variation of seat fixings, I have used 8 straps, 5 on the base and 3 on the seat back. So I thought maybe that was because the webbing I have used is a bit wider than the rubber bands originally used. Easy to check, look in the parts book.....

My interpretation of the parts book is that for the LH front seat you need 7 big (wide) rubber bands and 4 small (narrow) rubber bands, 14 big hooks and 8 small hooks. Then for the RH seat you need 7 big (wide) rubber bands and 3 small (narrow) rubber bands, 14 big hooks and 6 small hooks.

Now you tell me why the two seats should have different numbers because I can only guess that the drivers (LHD as it would have been originally) seat gets used more and they though that an extra strap under their legs would help!

There is the difference in the seat mountings but I don't think that would justify the difference in the number of straps.

Then you get into the rear seat and this seems more symmetrical between the LH and RH folding seats. 6 large rubber straps and 12 hooks on each seat irrespective of which way the seat faces.

So there you have it.... Make what you will of another Steyr Puch Haflinger "technical" solution to simple problem!

John

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:30 pm 
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My seats have three straps on the seat backs (in the upper half of the back) and seven straps on the seat base. Each strap has one U shaped hook at either end.

Garry

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:44 am 
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Thanks John and Garry,

One hell of a lot of straps and hooks! ££££££££££££££. €€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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Doug Hart

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:48 am 
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Why do you think I didn't use the original system? :lol:

John

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:54 am 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
Pirelli webbing is the easiest way to replace them , that is what you have called rubber webbing .
but upholstery elastic webbing can also be used .
this is done by sewing the loops on the ends .
disadvantage is it needs more pre tension . so it is a bugger to fit .
but it is a lot cheaper than Pirrelli webbing .

kerry

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:49 am 
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Hi John,

Can I ask,where you got your webbing and clips, how much you bought and how much it cost?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:09 pm 
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Hi Doug,

Bought from here:-

http://www.upholsterywarehouse.co.uk/ac ... ubber.html

Basically. I did a measurement across the seat frame, worked out how many lengths of webbing I needed and then bought enough webbing so I had a small amount left over.

Obviously, the best way to do it would be to then make a loop at one end of the whole length of webbing you have just bought. I allowed, I think about 5cms of overlap and put the wire clips at about 1.5 / 2cm from the end of the loop. With hindsight it would be better to go for about 3cm as getting the wire hooks though the loops on mine was quite difficult.

Then hook that loop on to one side of your seat rail and pull the webbing reasonably tight and use a marker pen to mark where that side hook would sit. Now if I remember correctly, you need to stretch the webbing by about 10% but I am sure the web site has the relevant details on it when you go through the blurb on the webbing.

Doing this, starting from the whole continuous piece means that you can then cut each subsequent strap to exactly the right length and probably end up with quite a bit left over. (Better some left over than not have enough in the first place)!!

The web site even sells the clips!

I used a piece of wire heated in a camping gas cooker flame to make the holes through the webbing in the correct places to put the wire fold over clips though so the holes wouldn't fray.

Hope this makes sense - if some thing needs clarifying, let me know so I can explain a bit more.

John

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 1:47 pm 
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thanks for that John,

I note that they also sell fixing hooks as well as webbing and fixing staples and bases. I don't supose by any chance that these will fit the Haf seats. Given the price that would be a big bonus.

Just checked my rear seats and they only have holes for hooks for the backs. I guess with the bases sitting directly onto the lids straps would not add any benefit!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:17 pm 
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Hooks are exactly right and even if they weren't a quick bend with a pair of pliers and they would fit!

Rear seat's seat squab sits on the lid so doesn't need straps under them.

One of the reasons I used them was you could get everything from them so you didn't have to buy this here, that bit there and pay lots in delivery charges.

John

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:56 pm 
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When I say the hooks are exactly right, I really should have qualified that to say, the hooks as bought from the upholstery warehouse are the same size as the large hooks that fir the large rubber band type straps as originally fitted to the Haflinger seats.

The smaller hooks are narrower and I used my hot piece of wire to burn / melt holes through the webbing at the required width. If you look very carefully at the pictures i posted at the beginning of this thread, you will see that the webbing that is under the leg at the front of the seat has the clips coming out about 1 to 1.5 cm in from each side.(I know, I should have kept all my measurements! I didn't for some reason) I could have cut down the length of the webbing to make it the correct width, but I thought that was a lot of hassle for not a lot of gain.

John

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:13 pm 
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The upholstery site I bought the webbing from to do the straps on my seat now sell a black webbing not just the beige one which I bought and show in the pictures.
I would have bought the black if it had been available when I was doing mine.... Still the straps are hidden unless you lift the seats!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 3:33 am 
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Thanks John - I have just bought 10m of the black webbing from that site, along with some accessories, and will let you know how I get on.

One quick question; when doing the ends, did you insert the end clips into the straps _before_ wrapping the ends over sealing with the staples, or do the staples and then feed the clips in through the gap afterwards? The former might allow for slightly shorter lengths of webbing?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 6:23 am 
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Hi Julian,

When I did mine, I folded over and stapled, then put the hooks through, but if you don't have enough gap, you can't put the hooks through - so putting the hook in place first makes more sense. Just don't make the overlap to small or the folded over bit might start to elongate the holes and give way. At least with, say, double the width of the plastic load spreader, you could always get another staple through to spread the load more.

John

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:38 pm 
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i moved the remaining elastic straps to the back support and tossed two foam seat pads under the seat. They work perfect. Picked them up from Walmart for $6 total. The shape of foam, plus the indentation of the sheet metal under the seat provides perfect support at the thigh and butt. :D

Image


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