Some questions about haflinger bodywork

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Yakov
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:50 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by Yakov »

So I've removed the platform from the chassis, and I'm hoping to repair some rusty spots, holes and dents before painting it in the spring. I figured I'd ask you guys about your experiences with this before I start something that turns out to be impossible.

Rear footwells: Is it possible to remove the rear footwells for repair (cutting and welding new metal) and put them back in? If so, has anyone done that and was satisfied with the process and result? I could probably do most of it without taking the boxes out, but there's substantial rust where they are spot-welded to the platform.
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Rust between panels underneath platform: Can I even do anything about this??
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heinkeljb
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by heinkeljb »

Drill out the spotwelds, peel out the footwell boxes, cut out rust and weld in new.

Buy a big blow up paddling pool and put platform in it. Fill with water and citric acid (used in cooking and can be bought as powder in various weights), leave platform to soak until all rust is removed. Take out, and rinse platform before drying.
Once dry, apply Galvanising paint and then prime / top coat!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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Yakov
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:50 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by Yakov »

I've thought of getting the whole thing acid-stripped/derusted, but most of the original primer is still good, and I don't want to take off whatever primer there may be between panels and in all the inaccessible gaps, since I won't be able to paint areas like the inside of the tubular platform rails.

Maybe I can just spot-treat with acid instead of bathing the entire thing? Or is bathing the entire thing the right way to go?
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heinkeljb
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by heinkeljb »

Citric acid mix will only eat the rust, it doesn't affect the paint unless you leave it a very long time immersed. Acid mix will obviously get in to all the crevices and remove the rust. You then have to figure out a way to protect those nice clean bits of metal- that why car manufacturers dip their chassis rather than just spray paint them.

When you consider the vehicles rusty-ness after 40 odd year, if you remove the rust now you should get at least another 20 years out of it !
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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heinkeljb
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by heinkeljb »

Drill holes in the sealed chassis members, remove rust as above, fill chassis members with chassis wax. Put rubber bung in hole to seal it back up!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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Techmogogy
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by Techmogogy »

I would not acid dip
If you don't neutralize every last spec of it, it will keep eating away at your car and manic holes will appear in perfect metal.
This happened to me and my rear skid plate.
Had it acid dipped, some got inside pipes and it could not be neutralized, and holes started showing up where there was no rust.
Also, the way many place 'neutralize' is a fresh water rinse... which then just causes flash rust!
Real pain!
--------------
72 Pathfinder Hafi
75 710M Pinzgauer 2.7i
96 350GDT
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heinkeljb
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by heinkeljb »

Comercial acid dipping uses much more aggressive acid mixes than what I am advocating. I agree if you do not neutralise the acid it will over time act in the same way as rust! Weak acid mix obviously takes longer to remove the rust but would also take longer to damage good metal to the point of destruction. It is the only way to get at the rust in the spot welded joints! Shot blasting, no matter what modes you use will never get everywhere there is rust.
Either way it is a total dismantlement of the vehicle!!! Lots of work.


John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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walderse
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Re: Some questions about haflinger bodywork

Post by walderse »

Another option for rust removal without the use of acid dip (either strong or weak) using electrolytic rust removal. It would require immersion and a lengthy period of time. For a Haflinger tub, a purpose built rectangular tank would be optimal to minimize water volume but a larger inflatable/externally framed swimming pool would also work. For example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKZv14-K71g

Hope this helps.

Take care.

Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
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