TheHaflinger.com

Cool, did you know there are at least 3 rear door types? While digging through my picture archives, I noticed early series 1 German/Austrian slant back had longer rear side boards that came up to the back of the battery box, and the bottom of the shorter door was the remainder of the long side board...

I get my bows next week if everything works out. I borrowed a center bow with doorstop for the pattern. Would love to find a set of rear doors, but will end up just making reproduction. First top will be "Bug Eye" slant back 4 door version where rear bow is hinged to center bow. I cut long...

Got me a pair of rough door frames over the summer, finally made them somewhat functional. After getting missing hinges and latch from Steve and replacing some rotted tube sections, I managed to re skin them as Half doors for now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/Haflinger/Picture054...

Get your butt on ebay, Robert has them listed , very good price , under $265 US ea http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sitzdeckel-links-NEU-Steyr-Puch-Haflinger-/131398793192?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item1e97fa77e8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sitzdeckel-rechts-NEU-Steyr-Puch-Haflinger-/171634074344?pt=DE_Autoteile&...

In the last picture your lever return spring is not anchored to the ridge in the backing plate(this pulls the parts together and allows for proper adjustment) .
The top of the shoes will drag if the return spring is not anchored(your filings?)

When you inspect the seal, look for a dislodged garter spring.
It is common practice to pack the back side of the seal with cold vasaline or Transjell assembly lube to prevent loss of lip garter spring during installation.
Vasaline melts/blends into oil.

Just follow the instructions in the repair manual, use a feeler guage to check the face to hub clearance. Unfortunately the rings are a bit pricey, but available. If you lack a repair manual, follow the link in my sig line, it is posted in Haflinger tech section(pdf) ;) One last tip, don't loose the...

Merry Christmas, Joyous Solstice, Happy Hanuka, and Kwanza.
Almost forgot, for the rest, Happy Saint Atheismo day

Condensation is common in air cooled engines on this continent(and cold climes) if you do not run long enough to cook it out.
Nothing wrong, normal condition

Looks like a Euro-pallet sized load cover would attach. Could also be for protecting special municipal/farming equipment.

Complete brand new assembly, just drop it in.

Do you not have wrecking yards in Australia? Same carb used on many early Mercedes cars.
Too bad you're not near me in sunny So Ca. I have at least a dozen new floats($25 ea US), but postage/duty is usually outrageous to Aus.
You can PM me If you are interested and know an affordable way to ship.

For electric pumps 1.5-2.5 PSI(0.103 - 0.172 Bar) Max.
Mount pump close to tank under body and use clear pre filter.

Wrong! Service manual states L cyl to far rt term.
Basically it works either way, but correct way is L plug to RT term , RT plug to L side of dist all models/years.

Old trick from air cooled VW days, if no jig is available, use a hacksaw to mark the fork positions on the rods, replace bad bearings/syncro rings and it goes back together just fine.

Yes. Puch 650, later BMW Isetta, early Fiat 500, Haflinger, all the same.
They just each have a different prom dress(cooling tin, engine shrouding)

I remove the seals from the bearing when I get them that way.
Yes, the pinion nut secures the speedo drive gear.

Raised section faces drive shaft. You will notice short side has the spline tips that are tapered to ease engagement.

For LH vehicles, the pipe follows the nose seam to the left and left(DS) , then up to res.. If you have the 7mm nipple type reservoir and have lost the hose joiner(5mm to 7mm hose adapter), just cut an end off of a fuel filter and join the hoses. I cut the ends off the little clear filters with dual...

Early krawler was not solid spline, it was "clutched" for overload protection.
Most were updated if opened for repairs, you can find the TSB on Haflingertecknic.