TheHaflinger.com

Great news

I don't have a photo to hand, but there should be a piece of rubber that fits onto the full width of the rear cross member, and goes on top and under the thin tin piece that is attached to the engine. What seems to have happened with yours is that someone has cut out a recess in the centre of the cr...

Hi Rick, Do your 1963 Haflingers have the small removable side panels in the engine bay? If so, perhaps the move from what Constantin used to describe as Pre-Series to Series 1 during approx. 1962 to approx. 1963 also brought in the revised voltage regulator location? I have several different versio...

My initial answer would put at the top of my Wish List a higher top speed. But in reality that would probably mean that many other things would then need changing (hubs, gearbox, brakes etc). Can't say that I have had any serious issues with the Dynastarter or any of the (meagre) electrics. I also w...

Hi Julian, S-D-P issued a Service Bulletin in September 1971 advising that early Haflingers with Weber carb to install the paper air filter system and discard the cyclonic filter. I know that all Canadian Series 2 Hafs came equipped with the paper air filter system so that would cover mid-1966 thro...

Good luck with the MOT, John - you deserve it!

My wipers suffered a similar fate yesterday, but a bit of encouragement and it now spins nicely.

Hi Steve,

As Constantin says, it is in the front right corner of the engine bay - this photo was taken by me in 2009 after my first attempt at an engine overhaul. As far as I am aware it is "correct" for the period.

The cable seems to be "turnable" by hand if neither end is connected, but when connected at the bottom, it doesn't turn when you go for a drive. So drive will have to come off just so I can find out what's not working. If the drive cog on the input shaft is damaged, that presumably mean t...

John, what you say makes sense (ie no paper air filter going with cyclone intake), but I'd never thought about it before. When I bought my green (1962) Haf it came with the flattened box that goes between the oil bath and the carb, and the short pipe in the photo above; I swapped out the flat box fo...

My air intake tube is not original - it is a strange beast; I do have a spare (new) tube with the bracket to fix it to the rear cross member, but have never got around to fitting it. I have also included a paper element air filter box between the oil bath and the carb, but kept the "proper"...

Proof it works

MOT test booked for next Friday; need to try to bed the brakes in a bit first as they are a little bit vague but it is difficult to do this without being allowed on the road.

From memory one needs to remove the steering box (or maybe the master brake cylinder?) to fit a new speedo cable. A real pain!

I have just received some parts from Robert Prokschi - Dale was out of stock. His english isn't great, but my german is non-existent. That said, he has been very helpful on several occassions, and I wouldn't let the language barrier get in the way. What I try to do is send an email in english, with ...

John, if it helps, feel free to pop up over the w/e to see my speedo - the Haf is already on the ramps for ease. (Call first as not around all the time).

Correction: The Operators Handbook states 20psi front and rear with full load. Max 23psi. For M&S tyres 23psi. Not sure whether this is for both the earlier type of tyre and the later type, but this is what I use for the earlier type (ie those with broad sections of full width tread blocks). Ju...

Correction: The Operators Handbook states 20psi front and rear with full load. Max 23psi. For M&S tyres 23psi.

Not sure whether this is for both the earlier type of tyre and the later type, but this is what I use for the earlier type (ie those with broad sections of full width tread blocks).

From memory the Owners Handbook states something like 20-24psi, but I will check in the morning if that is not too late.

It was something to do with getting the bolt that goes through the distributor body insulated from some bits and connected to others. Probably not helped by me reassembling some of the components in the wrong order? :D I do have a timing gun***, and used it to get the timing almost right. Will now w...

Hooray, it works!!!!!!!!!!!! After a bit of a hiccup with a short within the distributor the engine fired up first time, and runs really smoothly. I need to tweak a couple of things - timing / mixture / idling speed etc, and replace the oil seal between the pulley and the crankshaft to cure an oil l...

Yay! It works :D :D :D There was obviously a short somewhere within the distributor (where the terminal bolt goes through the body of the distributor), and having now sorted that the engine fired first time. Still a bit more general tweaking to do, but at least it works! Thanks to John for his inval...