TheHaflinger.com

Following on from my thread in the Engine Section about stripping down & rebuilding my engine, I have now got it back in and connected, but it won't start. Does anyone have any suggestions ...? * We have fuel and air getting to the carb & cylinders * We have power to the Dynastarter, and the...

Steve, just a minor point ... is there not some lubrication on that outer flange? Oil comes out of the crankcase through a rectangular hole adjacent to the crankshaft, and is held back by the large plastic seal that grips the flywheel flange. I'm now back at home after a couple of days away, and hop...

Steve, embarrassed to admit it, but almost certainly not getting all 3 bearings properly seated into the lugs on one side of the crank case. Whilst we took great care & thought that we had got it right the recess in one of them had been burred over :oops: . But the good news is that we were able...

Hi John, Nearly, but not quite. The engine is 99% rebuilt, but I still need to a) mend two exhaust studs on the cylinder heads which I forgot to do when all stripped down :oops: , and b) sort out the small metal lug that locates the Dynastater onto the engine case. It is supposed to be fixed to the ...

John, Thanks for the link - all 5 pages now downloaded & stored for future reference. I did have the engine page to hand, but it only mentions the M10 crankcase nuts - not the M7 nuts ...

heinkeljb wrote:Have you looked at the torque tables that were posted on the yahoo group site?

John, I can't find it - do you have a link?

Many of the crankcase studs & bolts are M7 size; most do not have a torque setting in the Workshop Manual. This page gives several torque settings for M7 nuts, depending on their "quality". http://www.npfasteners.com/pdfs/max-rec-tightening-torque.pdf But the studs are not marked with ...

garrycol wrote:A previous owner has painted all the lubrication filler and grease points bright red.

Nothing like as cheap as a daub of paint, but I have used these caps in the past, and have been very happy with them; easy to identify, and keeps the nipples clean.

Good idea, John. I'll need to get an extra wi-fi range booster to get wi-fi in my workshop, but can imagine that this could be helpful. I barely get GPRS on my phone here, so 3G's not an alternative

Mine is at the same location on my Series II Hafs, but AIUI the earlier Haflingers didn't have the bulge in the engine bay wall to take the socket. What vintage is your Haf, Dave?

The bearings do "look" good, and I'm hopeful / confident that they will be fine. Interestingly they are much lighter than the originals, and are presumably made of some allow rather than the originals in steel. No doubt material technology has come on leaps and bounds since the late 1950s!...

Thanks both; it is certainly not a big end bearing issue, as the con rods rotate around the crankshaft fine, but the crankshaft itself will not rotate. I will carefully undo the various crankcase bolts / studs etc and see when (or if) the crankshaft becomes loose again. I doubt the crankshaft is (or...

Armed with two new main bearings, 2 pairs of new con rod shells and a replacement #2 camshaft & associated crankshaft cog, the re-build started today. All went well until I joined the two engine case halves together and tightened them up, after which it became almost impossible to rotate the cra...

I found this article today, & it is written in laymans terms. Probably a bit UK (/EU?) focussed for Steve, but still interesting.
http://www.classiccars4sale.net/classic ... assic-oils

HaffyHunter wrote:After all you don't see radical mods done to a Gullwing Mercedes or early Porsche 911 because this severely devalues these cars ...

At the risk of thread drift, sadly some people have more money than taste. Have a look at this shocker!

This question is not unique to Haflingers, but is still relevant to them. I am in the (fortunate?) position of running three older vehicles, and would ideally like to use just one grade of oil in all three. Allowing for likely temperatures that I will be using them in (approx -5c <> 30c), the Handbo...

Thanks, John. Yes, I am very lucky to have the facilities that I do have, but by the sound of it my work is much less of a challenge than you have been having! I am having a broken stud removed from one half of the crankcase - a firm in Burgess Hill is using a spark erosion process (which sounds ver...

Steve - I have ordered some of these, and trust they are OK?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Torco-Engine-As ... B005DTWVU0
and
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Medium- ... B009332VR0

Steve, Thanks for such a comprehensive list - I'd never have thought of many of them, so your input will be hugely helpful !

Julian

It'll be a week or so before I am ready to do this, but are there any Top Tips for what to do before starting an engine for the first time after a complete re-build? Indeed, before that is there anything that should be done during the re-building process itself - in terms of pre-lubrication etc? For...