TheHaflinger.com

It's still amazing to see how many new members would like to (obviously automatically) sign up on the forum... my inbox is always full with automatically created messages from the forum, saying that a new member needs a authentification.... phew!

Update... I have now also deleted all users who joined after 2013-11-23. I read through the nicknames and it seems all of them were just spam users... around 250 members!

Markus has changed the registration to a mode where one of the admins has to accept it before the user can post. I don't know why, but I do have moderator rights (which I didn't know), so I have done some cleaning. Jim has done some cleaning as well. Still, there are dozens of spam members in the us...

Here is the magazine we've been talking about:

http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/literature ... alia02.php


Kind regards,
Constantin

Hi Julian, if both wheels are turning in the same direction, i.e. if the difflock is engaged, it means that you are turning the whole differential cage as well as the pinion gear via the crown wheel. On the front axle, the pinion gear will rotate, but not more (as long as the front wheel drive is no...

Well spotted, Steve! Just had a look at that picture as well and I think you are right! Welcome Nigel from my side as well - hope you find a suitable Haflinger soon! I wanted to point you towards the Haflinger Club of Australia website, but it seems that it is currently down. Kind regards, Constantin

John, younger SWB Haflingers definitely have a third bearing in the middle. And yes, I guess if one has access to the inside of the central tube, it would certainly make sense to have a look and make sure that there is everything OK there. I have currently a disassembled central tube on my workbench...

Hi everyone, it seems to me that with early Haflingers like this one (I'd by the way not call it a "pre-series" any more, but rather an "early series 1", see also Haflinger Yahoo Group discussion around 2012-07-18) the central tube has no third, intermediate bearing like on young...

Looks like a civilian Series 1 Haflinger to me... "typical" earlier Australian Haflinger with rear light compartment similar to the CH-Army version. The raised air vent on the back was also usual on these years of make. However there is a wrong lower engine door fitted (the original should...

Hello! Just a few additions to this topic: Yes, the Zenith 32 NDIX has been used for several different cars, such as Haflingers, Unimogs, Porsche 356s etc... While it seems that the upper main housing can be adapted to any of these vehicles by changing the jets etc., the lower housing with the throt...

I also think that the green seats are original!

Kind regards,
Constantin

Hi everyone, I agree that it is hard to tell how shiny Haflingers were painted (given that it wasn't a matt paint anyway, e.g. for military purposes). On some factory photos, the vehicles don't look very shiny, however I am not sure how well a glossy paint is represented in a black and white picture...

Hi Julian, I think the smooth faces are the ones that are in contact with the differential cage, because these get slightly worn whereas the other two faces still have the criss-cross surface from the manufacturing process. This is what I have in mind from the axles that I have disassembled, but can...

Hello, I personally like bright zinc plating - after some time, the parts will get less shiny anyway. Take care that you get it done the right way, for the Haflinger the "silver" look is usually correct (over here called "blue" zinc plating) while the "golden" (or "...

I have tried different things. When cleaning the engine halves, I still used fuel so solve the oily dirt, which worked fine, but surely isn't very healthy. I didn't like getting dizzy after using the fuel for a while, also you really need thick gloves to protect your skin. I also tried to use rotato...

Hi Julian, as I can see on FB, you have been able to undo the front drag links, which is good. I know it's painful to remove the split pins on the backbone tube. The rear drag links may only be removed when the rear axle is disconnected from the central tube... Also don't forget about it when puttin...

Hello Paul,

yes, I also used a wooden part between the noses and the hammer - worked fine.
There is a thin rubber o-ring that goes on the side cover as a seal. However I'd still apply a thin coat of sealant (e.g. Curil K2) between housing and cover.


Regards,
Constantin

Julian, I would not worry too much about the shims #38 and #39 on page 4-05. If there should be substantial problems when re-fitting the drag links you may still think about other sizes of shims. Since your shims are possibly the original ones, it also seems likely to me that they will be suitable a...

Hey there, you have to take off the half axles together with the differential gear housing side covers. You will note that the differential side covers have small noses (I think 3). One is on top, the other two on the side/bottom of the covers. These noses allow to apply force to open the covers. Yo...

Hello, a method that worked fine for me was to use a marker and mark the position of the pin holes on the side faces of the bearing. Same thing done on the engine half with the pins. Then one can also check the rotational position of the bearings when the complete crankshaft with bearings is inserte...