TheHaflinger.com

on a previous post I said I had taken the engine & gearbox out again because I could not select all the gears,I sorted that problem it was the bush on the vertical shaft in the gearbox turret was to tight. Earlier on in the rebuild of the vehicle I had some new piston rings fitted to the engine, I still have the engine & gearbox out and I have decided to have the engine casing cleaned ,so I have decided to strip the engine again and completely rebuild it this time.(I dont know why I didnt do this in the first Place ). This is where I need help, are there any tips any one can give me as to what to look for/checks and which parts should I be replacing for the complete rebuild. the engine runs ok when it is installed in the vehicle.
thanks in advance
Dave

Apart from the obvious things which I am sure you would do in any case, Oil seals, bearings which run rough, any thing else which looks worn. The only thing I can think of specifically is to have a read of Julian's engine rebuild topic on here about the bearing which controls end float.
Remember to take lots of photos and have a go at detailing how you go about such an engine rebuild. The repair manual is not as explicit as it could be about a lot of things and obviously quotes using "special tools". Would be nice to know if the same job can be done with a home made version of such an item.
There was a post I think on the yahoo site of someone who made a gearbox assembly jig (really can't understand why it was design with the need for such a thing). If Haflinger's ever got used in real battle situations, I bet an awful lot of them got abandoned when they broke down in the field as they are just too complicated to fix at the side of the road.

John

heinkeljb wrote:The only thing I can think of specifically is to have a read of Julian's engine rebuild topic on here about the bearing which controls end float.

I can't think of anything specifically to say, except to take great care when re-joining the two crankcase halves that you line up the three(?) crankshaft bearings properly. Each one has a small hole / detent and it is quite easy for them not to line up with the opposing lugs. Difficult to explain in writing but when you get there it will be easy to understand.

Other than that just ask as you go along - worked for me (and I am a paid up member of the rank amateur engineering school )

I took the crank shaft, pistons, & cylinders to my local engine reconditioner and they have checked the parts over and advised me to change the main bearings but stick to standard size as there is no wear, only the fitted bearings are starting to get very minute marks on the surfaces. the cylinders and pistons are both in very good condition. so its good news. I contacted Tony Hrelja from Melbourne today . he has the bearings on order from his contacts in Austria so I will have to wait for them to arrive . The engine casings are also at the reconditioner ,to be cleaned they should be ready early next week.

Dave

Dave - do you have an email for Tony Hrelja?

I know he acquired the old parts from the assembly plant in Melbourne but is he still a good source of parts locally.

As you engine is pulled down have you considered going big bore?

Garry

Hi Garry,
Sorry I don't have a email address for Tony, I am not sure he has one, he has been retired for a while so I don't think he has kept up with modern technology, I contact him by phone ,but he is a good source for parts and very knowledgeable regarding Haflingers and other Steyr things, his garage and shed are full of parts. As for the big bore question,the answer is no , I have been rebuilding the Haflinger to original spec as possible.

Dave.

Thanks Dave - I have his phone number but thought there might have been an email as well.

Cheers

Garry

Finally received the main bearings yesterday , so we started the rebuild today. first problem we found was one of the crankshaft bearing locating pins was missing ( right of photo) ,so we had to make another,second problem was the same a Julian , it took 4 attempts to get all the main bearings in the correct position ,everything looked good but as soon as I started to tighten the nuts the crank shaft would start to lock up, anyway after 4 hours the casing is now bolted together ready for the next part of the rebuild.

Dave

Sounds like fitting main bearings is a real pain in the back end! Is it always the Same bearing or does it vary each time?
Once you have the crank in place with the correct end float, the rest should be relatively easy as far as putting the engine back together.
Are you taking the gearbox / diffs apart as well?

John

Hello,

a method that worked fine for me was to use a marker and mark the position of the pin holes on the side faces of the bearing. Same thing done on the engine half with the pins. Then one can also check the rotational position of the bearings when the complete crankshaft with bearings is inserted into the engine casing half.

Regards,
Constantin

Hi John ,
Everything else has been rebuilt, after the engine, I will have the framework (LWB), 4 doors & canvas work manufactured plus 2 rear seat frames,then I think it will be completely finished.
Dave