I would like to disconnect the central tube from the front "axle" sub assembly and also from the rear "axle" sub assembly, so that I can clean it, de-rust it and re-paint it.
If I split it between #16 and #20 on the image below (and at the same point at the rear end), will anything "fall out" / be difficult to put back in & re-align etc. If it is I won't bother with this part of the strip down, as I don't want to start something that is difficult to put back together.
TIA
Disconnecting the central drive tube
Disconnecting the central drive tube
- Attachments
-
- 3-05_00_Front_Final_Drive_Casing___Intermediate_Casing.pdf__page_2_of_2_.jpg (184.21 KiB) Viewed 1557 times
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Looking at the parts book, the only thing I can see which would be a pain to put back together is the spiral drive that goes into / onto the differential drive gear.
But then, I have never taken that bit to pieces, so what do I know!
I am sure some one who has, will pipe up soon!
John
But then, I have never taken that bit to pieces, so what do I know!
I am sure some one who has, will pipe up soon!
John
Last edited by heinkeljb on Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
- AustHaflinger
- Posts: 2472
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am
- Location: Canberra Australia
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
I am interested in responses from those in the know - I have to fix my bearing noise which is coming from the front - suspect the diff or the front bearings on the shaft that brings the drive from the back. So I have to pull this off as well.
Garry
Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
-
- Posts: 434
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
- Location: Cairns , Australia
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Hi Julian,
There is a spline socket where the center tube connects to the gear box & similar at the front. so nothing will drop out. sorry I cant find any photos of the front spline, but I will stand corrected if wrong that the front spline is on page 310/0 part no.11 which is the four wheel drive selector (muff Coupling).
Dave
There is a spline socket where the center tube connects to the gear box & similar at the front. so nothing will drop out. sorry I cant find any photos of the front spline, but I will stand corrected if wrong that the front spline is on page 310/0 part no.11 which is the four wheel drive selector (muff Coupling).
Dave
- Attachments
-
- Front Pinion.jpg (389.31 KiB) Viewed 1454 times
-
- gear box end.jpg (207.06 KiB) Viewed 1454 times
-
- centre tube.jpg (232.31 KiB) Viewed 1454 times
-
- Posts: 434
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
- Location: Cairns , Australia
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Julian , If you do decide to remove the center tube ,when you rebuild it ,I was advised by Tony Herlja ( ex Melbourne production line assembly) that there is no gasket between item 16 & 20 as this will alter the measurements for the spacers, hope this helps.
Dave
Dave
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Dave, Thanks for both of those posts - very helpful. I had noted from the parts book that there was no gasket between 16 &20, but (& sorry if I am being a bit dim here) could you clarify what spacers you are referring to above?.
I see from your photos that you also removed the drag links; the parts book mentions a variety of shims of different thicknesses for the bolt that connects the drag links to the central tube (#38 & #39 on page 4-05). This is presumably so that one can ensure the axles are at 90 degrees to the centreline of the Haflinger. Assuming that you replaced the rubber cones (#32), can I ask how you worked out what thickness of shim to use? The thicknesses are all very similar, so I take from that that this might be regarded as an important dimension ...
Julian
I see from your photos that you also removed the drag links; the parts book mentions a variety of shims of different thicknesses for the bolt that connects the drag links to the central tube (#38 & #39 on page 4-05). This is presumably so that one can ensure the axles are at 90 degrees to the centreline of the Haflinger. Assuming that you replaced the rubber cones (#32), can I ask how you worked out what thickness of shim to use? The thicknesses are all very similar, so I take from that that this might be regarded as an important dimension ...
Julian
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
-
- Posts: 434
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
- Location: Cairns , Australia
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Hi Julian , I was referring to the shims on page 3 10/0 no,s 9a-9p. I did not replace the rubber cones as they seemed in good condition so I re-used them.
Dave
Dave
-
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:38 pm
- Location: Graz, Austria
Re: Disconnecting the central drive tube
Julian,
I would not worry too much about the shims #38 and #39 on page 4-05. If there should be substantial problems when re-fitting the drag links you may still think about other sizes of shims. Since your shims are possibly the original ones, it also seems likely to me that they will be suitable again when it comes to re-assembly.
I think it makes sense to replace the rubber cones. Mine were heavily deformed and hard when I pulled them out.
Regards,
Constantin
I would not worry too much about the shims #38 and #39 on page 4-05. If there should be substantial problems when re-fitting the drag links you may still think about other sizes of shims. Since your shims are possibly the original ones, it also seems likely to me that they will be suitable again when it comes to re-assembly.
I think it makes sense to replace the rubber cones. Mine were heavily deformed and hard when I pulled them out.
Regards,
Constantin